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September 20, 2010

First and foremost; a quick jaunt back to last years Spring collections… in one of my first blog posts in October of last year I went on this extended rant about how I didn’t have a clue what Marc was up to at Louis Vuitton and how the Marc Jacobs proper collections were starting to look more refined while the Louis Vuitton collections were looking more and more like Marc every season. The Spring 2010 collection was a mixture of bike shorts, neon colors, furry clogs and essentially everything you could think of that has nothing to do with the Louis Vuitton house. The tassels, the absurd afro’s; I wasn’t impressed and had no idea why no one else was making as big a fuss about it as I was. But as it turns out, I’m not entirely nuts; someone close to the source wasn’t so sure about it all either..

a snippet from the Katie Grand interview from Industrie;  she too thought, if even for just a brief moment, that something was very off. But it’s true, when you’re a stylist or a consultant you need to take risks, you need to get people to pay attention, to be glued to whatever it is you’ve produced, otherwise what are you there for?
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Needless to say, Louis Vuitton is back to it’s roots and Marc Jacobs continues to saunter on in high gear with everyone a buzz about his reference packed retrospective collection drenched in warm reds and golds, sheer luminescent fabrics and a handful of 70’s sass.

A collection that was “beautiful” and “fun” but like every season… not really my cup of tea. I love Marc as a person and really do appreciate his work but I’ve never been touched by it on a deeper level the way some seem to fall into a flurry of nostalgia and waves of mixed emotions every time he unveils a new season. Often times the adoration of his line is reminiscent of high school days when the popular kid is praised as an artist if it turns out they’re not half bad with some paint,a canvas and a style just campy enough for people to be intrigued by the difference between the person and what they produce.
Like every other girl on the planet I went through the Marc Jacobs phase;  you buy all the Marc by Marc nonsense your credit card can handle, you become obsessed with the cute cartoonie girl with sunglasses on your t-shirt and pine over The Stam bag for months and months on end only to settle for one of those nylon totes and some bangles. I’ve been there, I love Marc and I admire the well oiled Marc machine but I’ve nothing of sincere admiration to say about his line and thus I’ll leave it for someone else.
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A collection that I do want to talk about however, designed by someone I would absolutely never  want to talk about is Michael Kors.  I have no love that guy, no admiration, nothing.  He’s too tan for a New Yorker, he spends too much time with Heidi Klum and together they take themselves far too seriously. I have no interest in his MANY  mid range lines and will never understand why anyone would ever want to wear anything with his name on it but…..every time…..EVERY SINGLE TIME…..every time I see Carmen in a new Michael Kors ad I think to myself….I may hate your clothes Michael but if I didn’t know any better….your ads would make me want to buy them.

Mario Testino for Michael Kors Fall/Winter 2010

I generally don’t even like most of the clothes ads, except this season here happens to be an exception. The stole with trench look, the cashmere tapered sweatpants, the super low cut vee tucked into a skirt – all these are right up my alley now a days.  Otherwise however, I don’t want anything to do with Michael’s image – it’s always lots of beige with a pop of pink or yellow or in the case of this season, the under dog;  green, which he’s done before anyways. I’m never drawn to the Americana looks designers like him produce but every season, without fail, I want the life that Carmen has in those clothes.
As if the clothes give her that life. As if I had that camel coat, I too could have that hair and crisp autumn air romance.  I want it bad.

I knew I’d been growing up for a while now; all this hating of campy details and playful prints is a definite sign of some sort of burgeoning maturity. My growing collection of loafers, the constant purchasing of two of everything that fits like a glove, the continuous search for the perfect black or white t-shirt; these were all hints to my inevitable fate…  but i never knew the day would come that I would like, and feel the need to express, my adoration for someone as oatmeal as Michael Kors.

There is nothing I love more than relaxed high end luxury. I’m the kind of girl that sports sweatpants with stilettos, a crepe silk blazer and some worn out old white t-shirt. Its incredible how everything in this collection is flowing – even the leather. You can tell just from the photo how buttery it must feel and how well its going to break in. I generally hate skirts with slits on the side or in the front – nothing screams tacky like a slit up a floor length dress and in my opinion only one person can still pull of that look – Jessica Rabbit . These here slits aren’t made to be provocative but rather perhaps to make it easier for you to sit cross legged at the beach after wearing it out to dinner.

What I love about this collection however is the lifestyle that comes with it. More and more New Yorkers are digging into the West coast (Hello Proenza Schouler resort!?) for the gypsy vibe from which you can almost smell the sea salt…but always with a sophisticated twist; a starched button up shirt, a trench resembling British Burberry ways and a loose yet sexy crew cut style on top. Michael; having been the all American King of Beige for several decades now has it all out of his system. He’ll never leave me and my new found.. some would say boring.. ways.

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ALEXANDER WANG
SPRING. SUMMER 2011

The reason why I was both drawn and intrigued by Michael’s collection is because I feel like that’s what everyone was expecting Alex to grow into. He may be young and creative and just getting his feet wet but by the reaction of many writers trying to not say anything too detrimental it seems like everyone thought he would forever stay the same achromatic, luxury jersey, leather and khaki designer. He was the new safety net… but we spoke too quickly.

This may not be what many were hoping for but its thankfully a far cry from the velvet and pinstripe surprise we were all hit with last season. Its not a wear head to toe sort of collection but as always the outerwear is going to hit the ground running.  Same goes for the sheer blouses ( with doodles!) , sickly sorbet metallics and sling back booties – …the man can do no wrong with a shoe.

check out the pleats on those turquoise pants – I see those pockets and the weight and volume of that cropped bolero and I think to myself, I’d bare having paint in my hair to run with this tribe.  This is the kind of collection that, if you don’t look closely enough to the details, you’ll get lost in all the white on white and distracted by the glimmering sea foam.

Many seem to not be that thrilled but have a closer before you write him off as some experimental youth – THIS IS TOTALLY AN ALEXANDER WANG COLLECTION!! …filled with everything we love about him…

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all photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) from Style.com
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